Incorruptible

Anyone on a matatu will tell you, as you first begin a conversation, "We have a problem in Kenya. Corruption." No subtle hints at it, no innuendo, no passive voice like might be used with anything remotely sensitive. Hatred of corruption and disappointment at corrupt officials are no secret. No surprises there, corruption is a big money issue in Kenya--the ratio of our government officials' salaries to our GDP is one of the highest in the world, and the members of Parliament are trying to increase theirs before a new constitution can be passed removing this power from them. On the toilet side of our bathroom door (hence frequently read by me this year) is an oft-repeated slogan "US denies Kenya and Uganda aid because of corruption stigma." Breaking rules is big business.
A week ago I made a mistake. We were going to Hellsgate National park with some of the students--likely our last trip with them before we leave. As we were about thirty minutes away from home, I realized I had forgotten my passport! At national parks, the resident price is hugely cheaper (like 20% of) the foreigner price. And I can't exactly pass for a citizen. So I told Mr. Njire immediately. He said "We'll talk to them." And I smiled. I had been thinking I would be good for nothing but going back home and catching up later by matatu. But no such problems--at Hellsgate we did just that. He talked to them, and the guards said no. We talked more, and they said there was a way forward if the warden let me sign an occurrence book. So we tracked down the warden and annoyed her until we were in the park. Profuse thanks preceded a wonderful afternoon with the students.
We hiked down about 10 km to the gorge and stayed together as a group. Tuko pamoja--we are together. More on that later, I think. We spent more time than we meant to walking through and up out of the beautiful "gates of hell" and were late getting to Lake Nakuru (which is not exactly next door) but there, the boss ("mkubwa"lit. "big" but declined as a person) was more official. He was firm in his decision to not be loose with the rules. "Would they let you out of the airport if you said you just forgot your passport?" Well, no. But you could call my embassy and get it sorted out, maybe? I don't know. At Hellsgate, there was a way forward. At Lake Nakuru, I had to wait for the bus to return. It was my own fault--I knew price differences and that I'd have to prove residency. But I respect the boss' decision--I like rules myself. I just wish there were another way to sort it out.
Does corruption just mean breaking rules? When matatu drivers buy "a cup of tea" for the cop that pulls them over and sees they have no emissions documentation, are they not looking for a way forward? Is that any different from me entering a National Park without my documentation because we were annoying enough at the gate? Compromise is exactly that sort of breaking that is sometimes called corruption. But "compromise," as a word, remembers that you are breaking something to go to the other side, "corruption" sees only the broken thing.
See you on the other side.